The sound of doors closing and windows shutting is accompanied by the patter of footsteps every evening on the second floor of the building.
“When I hear the noises coming from upstairs, I go about my duties in the normal fashion,” says local town crier Chris Whyman, who works in the former Grand Trunk Railway Station which has now been turned into a tourism hotspot. “I let him be, I do not interfere with his spirit.”
The spirit Whyman is referring to is said to be that of a local railway worker who was killed in a train crash at the station two centuries ago.
Instead of sending shivers down one’s spine, his soul is embraced by the locals as one of their very own.
There are more ghost stories to be told in Kingston and the locals take great pride in telling them, but the city is better known for its culture of learning given its rich choice of tertiary institutions.
Kingston is just one of the many picturesque cities to have emerged from the man-made wonder which is the Rideau Canal (French for curtain).
The 202km canal was built to provide the British with an alternate route for troops and supplies from Montreal to the strategic naval dockyard of Kingston. It also provides a breathtaking waterway from Ottawa, the country’s capital, to Kingston.
Dotted along this scenic route are quaint little cities, towns and villages. Each has a story to tell or an experience to reveal.
Like Fort Henry, a national historic site in Kingston which takes tourists back to the 19th century with its re-enactments and tours.
There is no shortage of drama each day as young volunteers try to step up to the task of joining the military.
“Ready soldiers, stand in line,” bellows the corporal to his young and excited new recruits, aged between four and 10. “Yes sir”, they respond. “Soldiers, say goodbye to your parents. You are going to be here for the next 10 years and there shall be no contact. Is that clear?”
A six-year-old girl immediately breaks the line and dashes off into her mother’s arms. Sobbing uncontrollably, she doesn’t let go of mum who consoles her little deserter.
For 175 years the canal has provided a theatre for yachtsmen, paddlers, swimmers, cyclists, shop owners, inn-keepers, fishermen, real estate agents, tourists, lock operators, actors, story-tellers, nature-lovers and even skaters to live out their dreams.
In winter certain sections of the canal turn into a giant ice-rink and thousands of skaters take to their new playground.
Jones Falls is a popular destination en route to Ottawa. Here husband and wife team Don and Tara Blair own the Shangri-La Lodge which they have called home for the past 11 years.
“We love it here, we’re away from the hustle and bustle of the city,” says Don.
But soon the peace and tranquillity is disturbed by the sound of splashing in the watering hole adjacent to the restaurant.
“What was that?” I ask.
On closer inspection I learn it’s Ben, a Golden Retriever who is as well-known to the locals as Don and Tara are.
“He loves fishing,” says Don. “Every afternoon he goes into the big pond looking for fish. It’s amazing how many people bring out their cameras when he is in the water.”
Such is the magnet-like effect of the canal, people will do just about anything to be close to the water.
Barbara Croke was a vice-president of a major human resources conglomerate in Toronto but quit her mega-bucks job to run the Foley House Historic Inn and Pub, a charming executive Victorian-style house built in Westport in 1867.
“I love it here, she says. “I don’t miss my job or the city (Toronto). I felt a calling so I made the move without any regrets.”
Westport, a tiny village with only 700 inhabitants, possesses a wealth of history.
It was here that Thomas D’Arcy McGee, a Father of Confederation, delivered an impassioned speech on the steps of Foley House, before he was assassinated in Ottawa two years later.
Merrickville has also thrived because of the canal.
It is the business home of Gary Clarke, the proprietor of Sam Jakes Inn which is known for its culinary delights.
Clarke lives on one of the many islands on the canal and paddles 30 minutes each way to get to Merrickville.
“It gets a bit tricky sometimes especially when it gets cold but he will have it no other way,” says daughter and inn-keeper Lisa Clarke.
The canal ends in Ottawa, just a few metres away from the National Gallery of Canada museum which holds a comprehensive collection of Canadian, European and American art.
With its innovative locks system and plethora of little islands, the Rideau is deemed a work of art today. But like Sydney’s own Opera House it was first shunned and ridiculed.
While the Opera House was initially criticised for its strange design, canaldesigner English military engineer Colonel John By was accused of money-laundering as costs for the project blew out from a first estimated STG62,000 ($NZ178,623) to STG800,000 ($NZ2,304,811)
By was forced to return to England to face an inquiry and though eventually cleared of all charges, he died a broken man in 1836.
Today, 201 years later, the Rideau Canal has been declared a World Heritage-listed site.
He may not be as famous as Rembrandt, Monet, Van Gogh and Picasso, all of whom left their indelible marks just metres away from Colonel By’s legacy, but Colonel By’s ghost will forever be embraced on the canal.
IF YOU GO
Qantas flies daily to Canada via Los Angeles.
Overnight accommodation at Shangri-La Lodge - $NZ107 (includes dinner and breakfast - American plan package). Overnight accommodation at Sam Jakes Inn - $NZ182 (includes a’la carte dinner and hot breakfast - Sneakaway package). Accommodation at Foley House Historic Inn and Pub - From $NZ120-$297 (includes continental breakfast). Entry to Fort Henry - $NZ11.80 (adults) – $NZ6.50 (children 5-12). Ticket to the National Gallery of Canada museum - $NZ17